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No
other region in North America possesses the mythical aura of ALASKA ;
even the name - a derivation of Alayeska , an Athabascan word meaning "great
land of the west" - fires the imagination. Few who see this land of
gargantuan ice fields, sweeping tundra, glacially excavated valleys,
lush rainforests, deep fjords and occasionally smoking volcanoes leave
unimpressed. Wildlife may be under threat elsewhere, but here it is
abundant, with Kodiak bears standing twelve feet tall, moose stopping
traffic in downtown Anchorage, wolves prowling through national parks,
bald eagles circling over the trees, and rivers solid with fifty-plus-pound
salmon.
Alaska's sheer size is hard to comprehend: more than twice the size of
Texas, it contains America's northernmost, westernmost and, because the
Aleutian Islands stretch across the 180th meridian, its easternmost
point. If superimposed onto the Lower 48 (the rest of the continental
United States) it would stretch from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and
its coastline is longer than the rest of the US combined. All but three
of the nation's twenty highest peaks are found within its boundaries and
one glacier alone is twice the size of Wales.
A mere 600,000 people live in this huge state - over forty percent of
them in Anchorage - of whom only one-fifth were born here: as a rule of
thumb, the more winters you have endured, the more Alaskan you are.
Often referred to as the " Last Frontier ," Alaska in many ways mirrors
the American West of the nineteenth century: an endless, undeveloped
space in which to stake one's claim and set up a life without
interference. Or at least that's how Alaskans would like it to be.
Throughout this century tens of thousands have been lured by the promise
of wealth, first by gold and then by fishing, logging and, most recently,
oil. However, Alaska's 86,000 Native peoples , who don't have the option
of returning to the Lower 48 if things don't work out, have been greatly
marginalized, though Native corporations set up as a result of pre-oil
boom land deals have increasing economic clout.
Traveling around Alaska still demands a spirit of adventure, and to make
the most of the state you need to have an enthusiasm for striking out on
your own and roughing it a bit. Binoculars are an absolute must, as is
bug spray; the mosquito is referred to as the "Alaska state bird" and it
takes industrial-strength repellent to keep it away. On top of that
there's the climate , though Alaska is far from the popular
misconception of being one big icebox. While winter temperatures of
-40°F are commonplace in Fairbanks, the most touristed areas - the
southeast and the Kenai Peninsula - enjoy a maritime climate (45-65°F in
summer) similar to that of the Pacific Northwest, meaning much more rain
(in some towns 180-plus inches per year) than snow. Remarkably, the
summer temperature in the Interior often reaches 80°F.
Alaska is far more expensive than most other states: apart from two
dozen hostels there's little budget accommodation, and eating and
drinking will set you back at least twenty percent more than in the
Lower 48 (perhaps fifty percent in more remote regions). Still,
experiencing Alaska on a low budget is possible, though it requires
planning and off-peak travel. From June to August room prices are crazy;
May and September, when tariffs are relaxed and the weather only
slightly chillier, are just as good times to go, and in April or October
you'll have the place to yourself, albeit with a smaller range of places
to stay and eat. Ground transportation , despite the long distances, is
reasonable, with backpacker shuttles ferrying budget travelers between
major centers. Winter , when hotels drop their prices by as much as half,
is becoming an increasingly popular time to visit, particularly for the
dazzling aurora borealis . |
| Anchorage |
Cordoba |
Fairbanks |
Girdwood |
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Wedged between the two arms of Cook Inlet and the imposing Chugach
Mountains, ANCHORAGE is home to over forty percent
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Far quieter than Valdez, and only accessible by sea or air, CORDOVA
is an unpretentious fishing community
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FAIRBANKS , 358 miles north
of Anchorage, is at the end
of the
Alaska Highway from
Canada and definitely
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Outdoorsy GIRDWOOD , 37
miles south of Anchorage,
lies two miles
inland in the
shade of the Alyeska Resort
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| Haines |
Homer |
Juneau |
Ketchikan |
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The small community of
HAINES sits on a peninsula between the
Chilkat and the Chilkoot inlets at the northern
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HOMER , 226 miles south from Anchorage, is the Kenai Peninsula's
southernmost road-accessible town.
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The sophisticated and vibrant
city of JUNEAU is unlike any
other
state capital in
the nation. Accessible
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KETCHIKAN , five hundred
miles north of Seattle,
is Alaska's "first
city,"
and as the first port of call
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| Sitka |
Skagway |
Talkeetna |
Valdez |
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One of the highlights of an
Inland Passage ferry ride is negotiating
the 46 tight turns
of the 22-mile-long Wrangell
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SKAGWAY , the northernmost ferry stop on the southeast route, sprang
up overnight in 1897 as a trading post
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A hundred miles north of Anchorage, TALKEETNA has a palpable small-town
Alaska
feel: rumor has it that this
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VALDEZ , 304 road miles from Anchorage and the northernmost ice-free
port in the western hemisphere, lies at the head
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| Wrangell |
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With a population of just 2600, WRANGELL , the second stop on the
ferry system, is altogether quieter than Ketchikan
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